Visiting Rome

Felt like standing in front of one of Caravaggio’s paintings — an inspiring study in contrast. At first, I was swept up in the grandeur of Rome’s composition, drawn to the bold, storied strokes. I wandered through the Colosseum and the Forum, marveling at the fingerprints of civilization still holding strong. At St. Peter’s Basilica and St. John Lateran, I offered quiet prayers beneath golden light. I stood in awe beneath the Sistine Chapel, whispering my own promise to do something great; I stood shoulder to shoulder with tourists at the Trevi Fountain, tossing in my own hope for return.

It was the scale of Rome, its vibrant light, that drew me in first. But when I returned years later, I began to notice the shadows, the subtleties that truly made the city come alive. I fell in love with the worn and faded buildings. Familiar cobblestones invited lingering. I breathed in the greenery of the Villa Borghese, tasted the soul of Rome via the alleys of Trastevere, and drank in the pale evening light in the Piazza Navona, an Aperol Spritz in hand.

The longer I beheld it, the more Rome revealed its fullness — a city of grit and grace, rushing and waiting, prestige and humanity. And as I left, I was reminded of what both great cities and great art teach us: the human heart is not just meant to behold the surface, but in depth, to feel the soul.

Perfect Pairings: Eating & Sightseeing in Rome
Rome is full of recommended sites and restaurants, but it can be difficult to coordinate the timing of what to do and where to eat. Below is a list of some favorite places that are in close proximity to each other.

The Pantheon & Ristorante Abruzzi
This iconic temple-turned-church and cozy, corner restaurant are just a 9-minute walk from each other, making it easy to stop at the Pantheon before lunch or dinner and then enjoy a wonderful meal at Ristorante Abruzzi. During after-dinner aperitifs, recall the sunlight falling through the Pantheon’s roof and plan your post-meal walk to the Trevi Fountain, a short 4-minute walk north.

The Piazza Navona & Ristorante L’Orso 80
On my second trip to Rome, my husband’s friend recommended this restaurant to us and it did not disappoint. Sit at a table outside if you can, and enjoy a plate of creamy cacio e pepe and flute of Limoncello while cars squeeze past you. Then, take a 4-minute walk south to absorb the evening energy of the Piazza Navona, and if you’re feeling extra ambitious, walk another 8 minutes south towards my favorite gelato in Rome: Frigidarium. I promise the pistachio and amarena flavors are worth the extra steps.

Villa Borghese & The Clock Casina
Enter the Villa Borghese via the steps of the Piazza Del Popolo and enjoy a stunning stroll through lush greenery. Before continuing through the gardens, pause to take a picture at the overlook in Terazza del Pincio. A violinist may even be there to serenade you. As you continue, stop at The Clock Casina to enjoy a flaky cornetto and a cappuccino (I wouldn’t recommend dining for lunch). The charming green building is a wonderful spot for people watching and daydreaming about moving to Rome.

Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo & Ristorante All’Oro
For a truly elevated sensory experience, stop at the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo between 4–6pm and marvel at the Caravaggio paintings that hang in the Cerasi Chapel. After, walk 8 minutes north to the Michelin-star masterpiece that is All’Oro. You’ll get true Roman cuisine with a gastronomic twist. From experience, the Carbonara Reduction, Oxtail “Rocher”, and deconstructed All’Oro Tiramisu will be dishes you dream about years later.

Carbonara: A Roman Delight
There are many delicious dishes to experience in this foodie-friendly city but carbonara has a special place in my heart. Though the dish’s exact origins are debated, a popular belief is that Roman chefs were inspired by the bacon and powdered eggs eaten by American soldiers stationed in Italy after World War II. The combined American and Italian staples truly create decadent perfection.

My favorite place to eat carbonara is at Ristorante Abruzzi. Nestled at the end of the Via del Vaccaro, this restaurant has exactly what I pictured a Roman restaurant to have: outside seating, memorable food, and waiters full of personality. During my visits here, I have listened to stories from friends studying abroad, traded contended sighs with family members as we rest our feet, and exchanged laughter with my husband as an elderly waiter tipped my head back to pour my aperitif (Sambuca) directly in my mouth.

The common thread between these experiences? A savory, peppery sauce over rigatoni pasta. This humble dish, with its ties to both American and Roman culture, is a reminder that even while abroad, home can be found around the table.

Field Notes: Tips for Traveling to Rome

• The Piazza Navona is my favorite area to stay. I recommend the Hotel Portoghesi and a spritz at Tre Scalini.

• The highlights are worth doing. Spend a day at the Colosseum & Forum and a separate day at St. Peter’s & Vatican Museum.

• Visit the roof of the Hotel Minerva for a drink and scenic view of the city. Beware the pigeons who will try and befriend you.

• The Trevi Fountain is less crowded in the early morning.

• For ladies: bring a scarf to cover your shoulders as it is often expected within churches.

• Trastevere and the Jewish Quarter have wonderful restaurants worth exploring.

• Restaurants are rarely in a rush to turn tables, so do not expect the bill to come quickly.

• Uber and taxis are available, though the fees add up quickly (and walking is part of the romance with this city).