A Visit to Saint Mary Major

Walking into the Basilica of Saint Mary Major, I was immediately aware of how much history still lives in the space. Built in the 5th century, it’s one of the oldest and most important churches in Rome. The gold ceiling, said to be gilded with precious metal brought back from the New World, still shines in the natural light. Every column, mosaic, and chapel tells the story of generations who built this place out of deep devotion. You can feel it. They cared so much, and it was their gift to us. Received.

At the center is the Crypt of the Nativity. Beneath the altar lies a relic said to be part of the manger that held the baby Jesus. It’s a powerful thing to stand that close to something so sacred. I felt calm. Reflective. Loved. There’s a special grace in this space that can almost be touched—it’s so tangible.

Be sure to plan at least an hour. Walk slowly. Sit for a while. Pray. Let it sink in. My encouragement to any reader is to receive the love that permeates through the art and architecture. Grace that transcends the physical and rests in the heart of the curious and expectant pilgrim.

The basilica is located near Termini Station, so it’s easy to get to by metro or on foot if you’re staying in the Monti area. Nearby, you’ll also find the Basilica of Saint Praxedes, which has stunning early mosaics and far fewer people. It’s an easy pairing if you’re spending the morning on this side of the city.

Afterward, grab an espresso or lunch nearby. La Mela D’Oro is a casual spot right across the street with solid pasta and fast service. If you’re looking for something quieter and off the main drag, head toward Monti and try Trattoria Monti, known for hearty dishes from the Marche region and incredible house-made desserts. For something quick, Panella on Via Merulana has beautiful Roman-style pizza by the slice and warm, fresh pastries if you need a little something sweet.

Saint Mary Major is definitely worth your time. While it’s not as busy as St. Peter’s, the lines can still get long—especially now that Pope Francis is laid to rest there. Pro tip: don’t take a selfie at the crypt. A guard will stop you and make you delete it. I saw it happen. Twice.

It was so great, I’m already planning my next visit.