Ito
Las Vegas

Restaurant Review

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ITO

Destination - Las Vegas

Service:                  ⭐    (5)

Presentation:    ⭐    (5)

Food:                    ⭐    (5)

Atmosphere:     ⭐    (5)

Price:                    ⭐    (5)

Overall Rating: 5 Stars
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

The review system used above is solely created through Destinations We Know.

Dined on 3/2/24

Located atop the recently opened Fontainebleau, Ito’s 12-seat, 20-course omakase dining experience emerges as a standard bearer in the crowded Las Vegas dining scene. There is no set menu. Dishes are curated daily, and the service is anchored by fresh fish flown in from Japan. Ito is one of the very few multi-course, steeply-priced dining experiences that I feel is truly worth the price tag. I would return without hesitation. Dining at Ito was much more than just a meal. It was a full sensory experience.

Check-in was on the lobby floor of the hotel, at a black podium stationed in front of a black-curtained door, manned by black-clad hostesses cultivating a deliberate air of mystique and exclusivity. The hostesses explained that Ito is located in the members-only Poodle Room and our dinner reservation would allow us to experience the very exclusive, limited-entrance club. Prior to entering, the hostesses handed us a gold-embossed card printed with the Rules of the Room. After securing our agreement with the foregoing, one of the hostesses ushered us to an elevator, where we were whisked to the top of the Fontainebleau.

Upon exiting the elevator, we were greeted, escorted through the Poodle Room, led through a nondescript unmarked door, and seated in the speakeasy-style whiskey bar. The whiskey bar is small and intimate, softly lit by fireplace and candlelight, decorated with dark wooden floors, dark wall paneling, and red leather sofas and chairs—a definite vibe.

The witty and engaging bartender expertly guided us through the beverage options, demonstrating a deep knowledge of the spirits on offer—a global selection of whiskey, scotch, gin, vodka, sake, wine, and cocktails, with some unique and indulgent offerings. My companion and I both started the evening with a glass of the Suntory Hibiki Harmony Japanese whiskey. My companion ordered his neat. I ordered mine with a large cube, a choice I would come to regret. The whiskey was a lovely amber color in the glass, with a nose of fruit, floral, herbaceousness (perhaps pine or rosemary), and wood. On the palate, it was distinctly sweet with prominent caramel/honey, and a long finish with a subtle hint of wood. The ice utterly destroyed the beautiful complexity and richness of the whiskey. I strongly recommend enjoying this libation neat.

For the second round, we stepped up to the 21-year-old Hibiki. It was a deeper gold/amber than the prior pour, with a perfumed nose of floral incense, much less sweet and much woodier than its predecessor. The long finish was marked by the distinctive Mizunara oak. My companion looked utterly transported while soulfully sipping the liquid gold.

Prior to dining, we were allowed to explore the Poodle Room, which offered a luxe interior, spectacular views, a central bar, and the distinct impression that one might cross paths at any moment with notable glitterati. During our tour, we made the faux pas of sitting briefly on one of the sofas without checking in with a hostess—the area was reserved seating, and we were gently chided for the misstep. Do check out the washrooms if you happen to visit—stellar views facing Encore and a stall occupied by a surprising (though I suppose not entirely unexpected) guest in the ladies’ room. Hint: think namesake of the lounge. Surprisingly, no attendant was on duty in the washroom, but there was a limited selection of toiletries available.

After a brief circuit around the relatively sparsely populated Poodle Room, we were escorted back into the whiskey bar to await our 8:45 dinner seating. At the appointed time, we were ceremoniously led to the 12-person counter towering over Las Vegas. The spectacular vista foreshadowed the 20-course epicurean adventure to come.

We were greeted with a welcome cocktail—a slightly fizzy concoction of gin, ginger, yuzu, and pineapple. Prior to dining, we were offered a sake tasting or individually curated glasses to accompany the meal. I opted for the latter and thoroughly enjoyed the two selections recommended by Koko—Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai “Southern Beauty” for the early part of the meal, followed by Kikusui “Junmai Daiginjo.”

Dinner service commenced with fluke from Korea plated with pickled cucumber, chili, and chives, topped with delicate shisho flowers that really packed a flavor punch. The chef recommended eating the fluke and cucumber together in the same bite.

Our fourth dish was one you’ve likely already seen pictured online—a stunning concoction of marinated ikura (salmon roe), golden osetra caviar, and Hokkaido uni atop rice, served in a delicate white bowl fashioned after a sea urchin shell. The chef encouraged us to first sample the individual components of the dish, then mix together the uni and caviar. Hokkaido uni is often touted as the best in the world, due to the clear waters in which the sea urchin live and feed around this northern island of Japan. It lived up to the hype—sweet, briny, and umami flavors all bursting through as the buttery uni melted on the palate. After savoring every last morsel, I was left wondering whether everything that came thereafter might be a disappointment. Spoiler alert: there were more good things to come.

Our fifth dish marked a distinct transition in the meal—a red miso soup with black cod, mushrooms, and green onions. The chef instructed guests to use their chopsticks to eat the cod and vegetables and sip the broth directly from the bowl. The soup was a perfect segue from the richness of the prior dish into the nigiri courses.

The next several bites were nigiri served with warm rice, not the traditional room temperature, making them more fragile to handle but enhancing the sensory experience through the temperature contrast. Each piece was individually placed on the personal slate in front of each guest, meant to be eaten with fingers immediately upon presentation. Moist finger towelettes were provided and replaced throughout the nigiri service, which included Japanese snapper with yuzu, Japanese scallop from Hokkaido, Spanish mackerel, masu (ocean trout), yellowjack, the lean part of bluefin tuna, hand-torched (aka aburi style) seared fatty part of bluefin tuna, very lightly cooked tiger shrimp, hand-seared halibut fin, and Hokkaido uni. At the moment before service, the fish were brushed with ponzu or house soy sauce (dashi and/or nikiri soy).

All of the nigiri were excellent, with each seemingly better than the last. But I’ll note that the seared halibut fin was revelatory. With the fin being a fattier section of the fish, the flame searing released the fats and made for a slightly chewy, smoky, buttery bite. The meal crescendoed with a decadent serving of seared A5 wagyu topped with a generous portion of finely grated black truffle, followed by a toro hand roll. If there were any quibble to have with the meal, it would be here—a section of the hand roll contained a thick layer of nori that made a clean bite nearly impossible, resulting in precious toro squishing out of the end of the roll.

A simple, unadorned rectangle of tamagotchi, sans rice, was our precursor to dessert, a fragrant île flottante comprised of vanilla cake, exotic fruit compote (pineapple, passion fruit, and mango), crème anglaise, and mango purée, adorned with shiso flower.

The chef concluded the meal by offering additional à la carte items for anyone left hungry. I did not see any takers among us. Our end of the counter was tended to expertly throughout the meal by Chef Stephen Lim, Koko, and other members of the team. Executive Chef Wilson Chan and General Manager Jack Huang stopped by after the meal to debrief and ensure everything was to our satisfaction.

I’ll share with you what I shared with them: Ito is one of the best culinary experiences I’ve had in 40+ years of traveling the world. Highest marks to the team for taste, presentation, service, and overall experience. And kudos to Chefs Masa Ito and Kevin Kim for so successfully translating their Tribeca Ito concept to Las Vegas. For a spectacularly memorable evening, domo arigatou gozaimasu! Reservations are offered Tuesday through Saturday for 6 pm and 8:45 pm seatings. Credit card required for booking, with a 72-hour cancellation policy. The cost at the time of this review was $400 per person, exclusive of drinks, tax, and tip (our cocktails in the whiskey bar were $33 for the Hibiki Harmony and $183 for the Hibiki 21YO).

Review by @destinations.Decoded

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